So it begins

I would always opt for getting the engine going first as I have knackered the odd new paint job and bent the odd bit whilst wrestling with a non-running engine.

Hi Terry, Welcome.

It's your bike, so you can do whatever you like with it. Some folks will not 'restore' a bike to look like new, rather they will preserve or conserve what 'patina' exists. It is however nice to see a really perfect bike, particularly if the owner puts it to good use, rather than putting it in a glass case (in my opinion).

In my case, I like a bike to be fit and well mechanically, and I like a bike to be 'clean'. Even if only to avoid excessively dirty hands if it does conk! I think some dings and signs of use over the last 40 or 50 years or so are perfectly acceptable, and can add to a machine's appeal. There does come a point when in my opinion a bike is 'too far gone' and major cosmetic work may be needed. Assessment and decision is up to you.

The NACC guys are absolute 'toppers' as well as being 'crackers', 'bonkers' etc., but I guess you already know that!! Whatever machine you arrive on you will be made most welcome, heck, if they put up with me, they will tolerate anyone!

Best,

Potty Pantherman.
 

We keep smiling PP, we keep smiling!

I'm an oily rag merchant myself, but as PP says, there comes a point where there is no paint or substance beneath the oil...

There is no sniffiness in the NACC. Nobody has (yet) ticked me off for tuning Cyclemaster engines or for assembling an array of utterly horrendous "bitsas"

Enjoy following your feelings and preferences during the re-construction tjay and remember, if it wasn't for you, would the Moby have ever fired again..?

Have fun

See you on a run?

Thanks Guys
      Good advice from one and all. It all helps crystalise my own thoughts into a plan of action and it helps knowing that i am not going to be mobbed by the 'That flange widget didn't appear until 1972' brigade. Thanks Pete.
        I think PP is right about the cleaning. Giving the old thing a good wash down will make for a lot more pleasant spannering, as well as helping with reliability but Dolly you have a good point too, in that a running motor is a very good incentive to get on with the project. The last thing i need is to fill a lovely restored fuel tank to find the contents running down my boot.
        Most things on my Moby that need some attention can be left to a later date, as they are easily removable without disturbing much. Something i will need fairly early on is a new set of cables. Where is the best source? That way i can have a go at the wheels and brakes, as well as giving me a chance with the decompressor. Does anyone have a magic elixir for getting that nasty white oxidation powder off engines and from between the finning? Just thought i would ask as in the past it has always been a case of Scotchbright and elbow grease.
        So, as the engine has now climbed well up the list; does anyone have any pearls of wisdom about Carb cleaning? Mine is a Gurtner and, as best i can see, complete but lacking an air filter gauze. Then, of course, there is the big question; what mix do i use in the fuel?
         Blimey, it's easy to see i'm new to this isn't it? I've worked on a few old bikes in the past but this is my first attempt at raising from the dead and i am enjoying every minute of it. Any info, gen. clues, advice or general support is most welcome and i thank you all. Keep it coming - this is great.

            Cheers

             Terry    

Erm!...........

Try Aplins Bristol for parts, they are great to deal with.

White oxidation? Dishwasher when 'er indoors is out?, I have used alloy wheel cleaner but it's nasty stuff, oxidation seems to partially disappear on its own when running particularly if it is raining.

Gurtner: Dismantle and dunk it in cellulose thinners for a couple of days. Make sure you find, remove and clean out the 'slow running' jet. It's a small brass thing that can be tapped gently out and then cleaned. Look carefully, there are two small holes to clean out. They are forever blocking if you don't fit an in-line paper filter.

I use 25:1 standard 2 stroke oil. Others are happy with 40:1 or even leaner using a good quality fully synthetic.

My RM5 Supermatic had stood against a wall inside a barn just 1/4 mile from my house for about 25 years. It took my son and I just 10 minutes to have it making smoke! Another 10 minutes and we were riding it up and down the drive.

For encouragement, see the photo. That's just about in as-found condition. It's great.

Best,

Potty P.

Hi Terry

If your Gurtner carb is missing the black plastic triangular-section air filter box I can let you have one from my pre-owned stocks.

nobody , so far has commented on your remark about stainless nuts,bolts and screws....good idea, and at times you can also see where you have been!  one of the irritations you will encounter, and probably already have, is "worn" nuts screwheads etc, where "amateurs" (as opposed to us enthusiasts) have attempted to undo or unscrew all sorts of parts for whatever reason, using totally inappropriate bits of kit!...also, bear in mind, that occasionally you will come across a left-hand threaded part, so, before you get the lump hammer and cold chisels out to something that doesn't appear to want to move, give the objects purpose a little concentrated consideration!...the very best of luck!

Ah yes, the dreaded worn nuts.

Shocker.

Hi Guys
     I'm happy to report a very successful afternoon. I decided to have a tinker and see if i could breath any life into the engine. I didn't want to put fuel in the tank and as the carb was a bit of an unknown quantity, I elected to use the age old technique and pour a dollop of fuel (From the strimmer can) down the spark plug hole. A few false starts to get used to the decompresser and, would you believe it started? Only for few seconds but it definitely started and ran. Whoopee!
     On a role, i then decided to set to on the carb, so off it came. Isn't getting the cable out of the slide a faff? Intending to follow PP's advice i wiped down the grimey lump and stripped it. I was amazed to find that the inside is as clean as a whistle. No kidding, a complete contrast to the exterior. So it was out with the carb cleaner and some careful work with a cloth, had the whole thing looking great.
     I hope the rest of the machine follows this trend and from what i have found so far, isn't a false hope.
     Nick, thanks for your offer. I have the plastic triangular body of the air filter; it's soaking in a bowl of soapy water, in the sink as i type. Margaret is chuffed to bit's! What i don't have is the gauze filter that fits inside. I'm guessing that it is a sort of butterfly shaped thing. I'm also guessing that there must be some sort of strap to hold the air filter box in positiion, on to the carb, as there are a couple of usefully placed holes in the back plate of the carb and a matching groove round the airbox.
     Kermit, i have been very lucky so far in that the fixings seem, so far, unmolested. I get the impression that in it's past life, it was used for it's 7k-ish miles and then left untouched. I think it is time that has done the most damage. Better that than some sixteen year old with his dad's three spanners and a screwdriver eh?
      Stainless nuts and bolts are very useful, i used to replace the fixings on my old Russian bikes as a matter of course. The Russian ones were like toffee and easier to snap than try to unscrew. The only things to keep in mind is that they tend to be a little bit more brittle than the normal steel, so you have to watch really stressed areas and use plenty of copperslip if used in cast ally or they will lock solid. The locknuts are good too, real fit and forget stuff but the plastic centre can look a bit out of place on a 'period' rebuild
     Speaking of left hand threads; forewarned is forearmed, so anyone know where i can download a workshop manual? I found a nice one but it is in French. There must be an English version out there somewhere.

                 Cheers Chaps

                     Terry    

That's my faith in Moby engines re-affirmed!

Not quite Russian, but how about a little Polish number?

Potty P

Hi Guys
     I love the pictures PP. The Polish job is quite a sweet looking little machine isn't it? To find a Supermatic like that.... such tales are dreams made of! It's a very nice looker and i love the colour scheme.
      To follow the fuel supply theme, i am next going to have a look at the fuel tap. It will be nice to know that, if anything goes pear shaped, i can, at least, turn the damn petrol off. So, is there anything that may bite if i start playing with the tap? Mine turns okay but seems to offer little resistance. Is this normal? How are the markings read - at the top - bottom?
      With this sorted and the carb replaced, i may even be able to start the engine for real and not just a five second Brrrrrrr. What are the best settings to start with on the carb after it has been stripped?

                 Cheers All

                    Terry 

The Polish bike looks great - but I am not sure about the two dodgy looking blokes in the background.
I am sure one of them was featured on Crimewatch last week - something to do with importing and flogging cheap fags I think.

Repsac and Dolly!
 
Flogging cheap fags indeed...
 
I have seen this rare little thing in the flesh. The piccie was taken at the Sad Ol' Gits run if I'm not mistaken and I seem to recall that Tom cleared a fuel blockage and then piloted it round the route with a big beardy grin.
 
Cute.
 
The bike that is!

Hi,

Some petrol taps 'turn' on/off, whilst others you pull up for off, and push down for on, or was it the other way round?!! Either way, I think they are still available and not too dear.

I don't use a filter in the tank, rather an in-line paper one downstream. For trialling the motor, I'd just put a pint or so of fuel in the tank just in case..............

Unless your carb. is different from mine, there is really only one adjustment, and that is throttle slide to get the slow running required. Gurtner presumably decreed that you couldn't do better than themselves?!

Sorry to be a long-playing record ad nauseam, but make sure all the jets are clear. Don't think that because it all looks clean, the jets must be clear. Be a 'doubting Thomas', and poke some fusewire or similar through the holes. (OK the handbook might say you shouldn't do this, but whoever took any notice of the handbook in any case??)

Best,     Potty P

Hiya
     I think i can safely assume that my fuel tap is of the push-pull type. I discovered this last night when trying to trace the strong smell of petrol i was greeted with on going into the garage. My little Moby had widdled the dregs from the tank all over the floor. Pushing, pulling, turning and general twiddling of the tap eventually stopped the drip and i've found no more this morning.
     This has, at least, proved two things; the tap seems to work, so leave it alone, and the tank doesn't leak, as it still had a drop of fuel in it. Always look for the silver lining!
      I too am also a check, check, and double check sort of bloke, life has bit me on the bum too often to be otherwise, so i am pretty certain that the carb is clear. Time will tell. Please don't ever feel that you are labouring a point. Believe me, this is exactly what i want and need, I'm the tyro here and still may need pointing at the obvious.
      Y'know, being new to all this, there are still odd things that crop up and give me a smile. 'Put a pint of fuel in the tank' Fantastic! how often do you hear that these days? I don't think i have dealt in pints of fuel since i last put Methanol in the glow plug motors in model aircraft. Oh, there's the Strimmer i suppose!
      If the rain stays off, i think todays job will be to drag the Moby outside and gunk down the rest of the engine and lower frame. Much easier without the carb there. There is also a local shop that has been trading in Scooters and Mopeds since God was a lad. I used to go as a little kid, with my dad to buy paraffin from the current owners dad. Anyway, i think i will stick my head round the door and see if he still has any ancient old Mobylette spares kicking about. worth an ask isn't it?

          Cheers

            Terry 

Good luck. They will look at you funny and no doubt ask when your 'carers' are due to come and pick you up!  It's a hoot, celebrate your youth!

Best,

Potty P  ps, any photos to tickle our rods and cones?

Igor, the creature lives !!!
      Smug hardly sums it up really. I think we can call it a successful afternoon. Out came Moby to be blitzed with a Gunk shampoo and shower and, i must say, it came up rather well. The shock of the clean has made everything that is still grotty stand out more but, on the whole, what was under the crud looks pretty nice.
      I had a short errand to run, so leaving Moby to dry in the wind i took the chance to collect a can of fuel and a bottle of two stroke and returned to refit the carb and mix up the 25-1 (PP) potion. Sorry but that carb slider gets faffier by the minute! Filling the tank with about a pint -( PP?) Actually it was about half a litre - well, it is French after all - turned on the fuel and crossed everything crossable.
      Initially there was a tendency for the drive belt to slip but after a good wipe down and a check to see if the decompressor was ....er....... decompressing, a gentle pedal had the motor spinning. Drop the decom and away it went - easy as that!
      Suddenly the garage was filled with the heady aroma of two stroke with a notable aftertaste of drying Gunk. Anyone else like the smell of Gunk on a hot engine? Okay, just me then.
      It ran very nicely indeed, even answering the throttle in the propper manor. I noticed a marked reluctance to disengage from driving the back wheel but i will investigate that later. One step at a time eh?
      Just to prove this isn't the fevered wanderings of some unbalanced mind. i am now going to try and add a couple of pictures - wish me luck!

                Terry

Yeeeeeeeeeee-Ha! She's a little sweetie.

All my pals come specially to sniff the air in my garage!

Maybe I should bottle it!

Let us know how it performs.

Best,

Potty P.

I'd put money on a sticky clutch being the cause of a reluctance of the drive to disengage.  Probably caused by the long lay-up.  It should free up relatively easy provided that you have the proper tool to pull the drum off.  Let me know if you need to borrow one.

There was an old moped shop in Dover when I moved there at the age of 15, years ago.  It used to sell Garelli and Mobylette bikes and still had a couple of bikes and wooden racks of spares when my Mum sent me there to buy paraffin in a gallon can.  The paraffin was decanted from a bulk tank situated next to an open fire in the main shop.  I don't think we had Health and Safety in those days. 

In time the owner retired and the shop was taken over by a local rogue with no interest in the bikes.  He gave me an arm full of "old rubbish I'm chucking in the bin" which turned out to be parts lists for Mobylettes - I still have them.  The spares were put into dustbins and kept outdoors - he wouldn't let me see them for some reason and when he eventually gave up the business and invited me to make an offer I found that the spares were all submerged in rusty water, such a waste.